美国正流行：用中餐手法，烤感恩节火鸡
2019-11-25 21:07:55 83
声音简介
Chinese Roast Duck, but Make It Turkey
By Cathy Erway
① The three days leading up to Thanksgiving are manic at Kau Kau BBQ Market & Restaurant, a mainstay in Seattle’s Chinatown that specializes in Chinese barbecue. At least two extra cooks are brought on to help clean, brine, dry, baste and roast holiday turkeys 24 hours a day in the kitchen’s already packed ovens: crisp-skinned, five-spice-seasoned birds that Kau Kau makes according to the same process it uses for its roast duck.
② Unlike American-style dry-brined turkeys, in which a much drier salt-and-spice rub is applied to the exterior skin, this Chinese-style brine goes solely inside the cavity and helps keep the meat moist while it roasts.
③ For many Chinese-Americans, the turkey strikes a balance, allowing them to assimilate to American holiday conventions without sacrificing their tastes. After all, what could be more American than having things your way?
④ “They want to celebrate the Thanksgiving tradition, yet they can’t accept the American turkey,” said Eric Cheung, the owner of a Cantonese barbecue shop in San Francisco’s Chinatown.
⑤ For other Chinese-American households, the fear of missing out on a national pastime can be a strong motivator. Often, turkey comes at the instigation of the American-raised generation of the family, who grew up learning about Thanksgiving in school, over crafts like hand tracings drawn to resemble turkeys.
⑥ “It’s such an ingrained part of American culture that we wanted to bring home, but to my parents, it was still completely foreign to them,” said Andrew Shiue, the Chinese-American writer behind the blog Beyond Chinatown. “We wanted to take part in this American tradition.”
(c) 2019 The New York Times Company
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