This jacket has been banned from a UK high school.
这件外套已经被英国一所高中禁止使用。
Why?
为什么？
An effort to poverty-proof the school environment.
努力使学校环境不致贫困。
Shielding low-income students from feeling bad about not having a pricey coat.
保护低收入学生，不让他们为没有一件昂贵的外套而感到难过。
Canada Goose jackets cost anywhere from $500 to $1,500, and they're not just popular in English high schools.
加拿大鹅羽绒服的价格从500美元到1500美元不等，而且它们不仅仅在英国高中流行。
They're everywhere.
他们到处都是。
How did these coats get so popular?
这些羽绒服怎么会这么受欢迎？
And why are they so expensive?
那为什么这么贵呢？
Canada Goose started out as a working-class brand, and it was really focused on the working-class laborers up in Canada.
加拿大鹅起初是一个工人阶级品牌，专注于加拿大工人阶级工人们。
Canada Goose was founded in 1957 by Sam Tick in a warehouse in Toronto, and it was originally called Metro Sportswear.
加拿大鹅于1957年由Sam Tick在多伦多的仓库里创立，它最初的名字叫Metro体育运动服饰。
By the '80s, people were sporting the company's jackets in the coldest places on Earth.
到了80年代，人们在地球上最寒冷的地方也能穿上该公司的夹克。
Its Expedition Parka became standard-issue at Antarctica's McMurdo Station, where the scientists nicknamed it "Big Red." And in 1982, one of the company's jackets made it to the top of Mt. Everest on the back of Laurie Skreslet, the first Canadian to summit the mountain.
这个品牌的派克大衣成为南极洲麦克默多站的标配，科学家们给它起了个绰号叫 "大红"。而在1982年，该公司的一件羽绒服穿在了第一个登上的珠峰之巅的加拿大人身上，那个人就是Laurie Skreslet。
So we're always trying to find the authentic in a saturated world that's kinda contaminated by materialism.
所以我们总是试图在一个被物质主义污染的饱和世界中找到真实的东西。
You get those credentials through the craftsmanship.
你通过匠心得到这些凭证。
You also get it through a history of the brand, where it's born of experiences that were actually real that then became products.
你还可以通过品牌的历史来了解，它的诞生其实是真实的体验，然后成为产品。
So what do Canada Goose jackets have that others don't?
那么，加拿大鹅有什么别人没有的呢？
The company uses high-quality Canadian Hutterite down, recognized as one of the highest quality in the world.
公司采用的是世界上公认质量最高的加拿大哈特石羽绒。
The company claims its animal fur trim disrupts air flow and protects exposed skin against frostbite.
该公司宣称，其动物毛皮装饰会破坏空气流动，保护裸露的皮肤不被冻伤。
In fact, Canada Goose says its jackets can withstand temperatures as low as -30° Celsius.
事实上，加拿大鹅表示，其夹克可以承受低至零下30摄氏度的温度。
And that sort of quality doesn't come cheap.
而且这种质量并不便宜。
Western coyote fur, similar to what Canada Goose uses, is estimated to cost $104.
西部小狼皮毛，与加拿大鹅使用的皮毛类似，估计价格为104美元。
People need that kind of performance, that kind of functional quality in their day-to-day lives, and it's unusual to see such a brand transform into a luxury brand, but Canada Goose has been very successful at making that transition.
人们在日常生活中需要这样的性能，这样的功能质量，这样的品牌转型为奢侈品牌是很不寻常的，但加拿大鹅在这种转型上非常成功。
By the turn of the millennia, the company got a new CEO who would revolutionize the name "Canada Goose" into the luxury brand we know today.
直到千禧年来临之际，公司有了新的CEO，他将 "加拿大鹅 "这个名字彻底变成了我们今天所熟知的奢侈品牌。
In 2001, Sam Tick's grandson, Dani Reiss, was named as the company's president and CEO. He started expanding the brand in Stockholm.
2001年，Sam Tick的孙子Dani Reiss被任命为公司的总裁兼CEO。他开始在斯德哥尔摩拓展品牌。
His commitment to quality limited supply, but that only increased demand.
他专注产品质量、供货有限，但导致市场的需求增长。
The brand spread throughout Europe, mainly on word of mouth.
该品牌主要靠口碑传播到整个欧洲。
Then Reiss targeted America.
然后Reiss把目标锁定在美国。
His parkas became the unofficial uniform for cold-weather film crews, and in 2004, the coats made it in front of the camera.
他的派克大衣成了寒冷天气电影摄制组的非正式制服，2004年，这些大衣登上了镜头前。
Reiss continued to market through the silver screen, sponsoring film festivals in cold places like the Berlin Film Festival and Sundance.
Reiss继续通过银幕进行营销，赞助柏林电影节和圣丹斯等冷门地方的电影节。
And its US exposure hit a new high in 2013 when Kate Upton donned a Canada Goose parka on the cover of Sports Illustrated.
而其在美国的曝光率在2013年达到了一个新的高度，当时凯特·阿普顿身穿加拿大鹅大衣登上了《体育画报》的封面。
Cultural marketing is that the products are part of the culture, and the advertising is actually the products just living lives with the people who use it.
文化营销，就是产品是文化的一部分，广告其实就是产品只是和使用它的人一起生活。
Through that association, they really raised their stature, and again that's an interesting, authentic way that Canada Goose made its entrance into the luxury market.
通过这种关联，他们真正提高了自己的地位，这又是加拿大鹅进入奢侈品市场的一种有趣又真实的方式。
There has been some backlash though.
不过有些强烈反对声音。
PETA has protested against the company's production methods and pushed the company to use a cruelty-free alternative.
善待动物组织抗议公司的生产方式，迫使公司使用不残忍的替代方式生产。
Despite the protests, the company is on the upswing.
尽管遭到抗议，但公司仍在持续上升。
At the end of 2013, Reiss sold a majority stake in the company to Bain Capital, which allowed the company to expand manufacturing in Toronto and Winnipeg and eventually open a store in New York City.
2013年底，Reiss将公司的大部分股份卖给了贝恩资本，使公司得以在多伦多和温尼伯扩大生产规模，并最终在纽约市开店。
Its expansion continued for four years, and in 2017, the company went public.
其扩张持续了4年，2017年，公司上市。
On its first day of trading, the company's stock jumped 25%, and it's continued to rise through most of 2018.
上市首日，该公司股价大涨25%，并在2018年大部分时间里持续上涨。
The company's revenue has increased from CAN$291 million in 2015 to CAN$591 million in 2018, a 77% increase.
公司的收入从2015年的2.91亿加拿大元增加到2018年的5.91亿加拿大元，增长了77%。
The world seems to have shifted from materialistic display of wealth and status to more experiential displays.
这个世界似乎已经从物质主义的财富和地位展示转向了更多的体验式展示。
New luxury is really aligned with the new consumers, which I call HENRYs.
新奢侈品真正与新的消费者保持一致，我称他们为HENRY们。
The High Earners Not Rich Yet.
高收入但还未富裕者。
New luxury appeals to them.
新的奢侈品对他们有吸引力。
I mean, it's more substance over style,democratic luxury rather than elitist luxury reserved just for the wealthy.
我的意思是，它更多的是内涵而不是风格，是民主的奢华而不是只留给富人的精英主义奢华。
Canada Goose has found a niche between accessible outerwear like Patagonia and exclusive outerwear like Montcler and Prada.
加拿大鹅在“平易近人”的巴塔哥尼亚户外服饰品牌和孟克莱、普拉达这些“排外的“户外服饰品之间找到了一个定位。
In 2018, the company accounted for 6% of the $11 billion premium outerwear market.
2018年，该公司占110亿美元高级，上等外衣市场的6%。
Traditional luxury, which is very much hinged on exclusivity and elitism, just reserved for the wealthy, is being disrupted by new luxury ideals that young consumers are bringing into the marketplace.
传统的奢侈品非常注重独占性和精英性，只是专属于富人的，但年轻消费者带来的新的奢侈品理想正在颠覆市场。
海阔天空_Htr
非常精彩的好节目