（双语文稿）传统酿酒方法赢得青睐

Wine made by ancient methods is gaining new fans.
用古代方法酿造的葡萄酒正在赢得新的粉丝。
Wine is an alcoholic drink made from fruit like grapes.
葡萄酒是一种由葡萄等水果制成的酒精饮料。
Natural wine uses methods that reduce processing and harmful effects on the Earth. Research company IWSR Drinks Market Analysis found that people in the U.S. are seeking natural wine in increasing numbers. At the same time, the number of wine buyers has been dropping since 2015.
天然葡萄酒使用的方法减少了加工过程，也减少了对地球的有害影响。研究公司IWSR饮料市场分析发现，越来越多的美国人正在寻求天然葡萄酒。与此同时，自2015年以来，葡萄酒购买者的数量一直在下降。
Natural and other Earth-friendly wines made up less than one percent of sales in 2021. But demand for those wines was rising faster than other kinds on the whole, reported Drizly, an online site for ordering and shipping wine and other alcohol.
2021年，天然葡萄酒和其他环保葡萄酒的销量不到总销量的1%。但据葡萄酒及其他酒类订购和运输网站Drizly报道，总体而言，对这些葡萄酒的需求增长速度要快于其他葡萄酒。
Most natural wines are made with organic grapes collected by hand. Organic growers do not use poisonous chemicals to stop or control insects or unwanted plant growth.
大多数天然葡萄酒都是用手工采摘的有机葡萄酿造的。有机种植者不使用有毒的化学物质来阻止或控制昆虫或杂草生长。
To make wine, the grapes need to be crushed. Some wine producers crush grapes by foot like people of ancient times. Afterwards, the crushed grapes ferment naturally. Manufacturers do not add water, yeast or other substances.
为了酿酒，葡萄需要被压碎。有些酿酒师像古代的人一样用脚踩碎葡萄。之后，压碎的葡萄自然发酵。制造商不添加水、酵母或其他物质。
There are exceptions. Some natural winemakers add sulfites, a chemical produced naturally in grapes. Extra sulfites can help preserve, or keep, the wine. And some winemakers clear the final liquid of any small pieces that could make it look cloudy.
当然也有例外。一些天然酿酒师会添加亚硫酸盐，这是葡萄中自然产生的一种化学物质。额外的亚硫酸盐可以帮助保存葡萄酒。一些酿酒师会清除最后的液体中任何可能使其看起来浑浊的小碎片。
The result is wines that are earthy and less predictable than many of the wines created by bigger producers.
其结果是，与许多大型生产商生产的葡萄酒相比，这些葡萄酒带有泥土味，品质难以预测。
"The first time you taste it, you can tell it's alive," said John Keller. He is the owner and winemaker at Neu Cellars in Northern Michigan.
约翰•凯勒说:“你第一次品尝它，就能知道它是活的。”他是北密歇根新酒窖的老板和酿酒师。
But selling natural wine processes can be difficult. Natural wine has no set definition in the U.S. It is not easy to find, since most natural wines do not identify as such on their labels.
但销售天然葡萄酒的过程可能很困难。在美国，天然葡萄酒没有固定的定义，很难找到，因为大多数天然葡萄酒在标签上都没有这样的定义。
"Natural just sounds good, but conventional wine is pretty natural too," said Anita Oberholster. She is a professor in the Department of Viticulture and Enology at the University of California, Davis. "If the idea of natural wine is going to grow, we should do research on it and define it."
“天然听起来不错，但传统葡萄酒也是天然的，”安妮塔•奥伯霍尔斯特说。她是加州大学戴维斯分校葡萄栽培和酿酒系的教授。“如果要发展天然葡萄酒的概念，我们就应该对它进行研究，并对它进行定义。”
Keller of Neu Cellars has a degree in biochemistry. He started out working for a big winemaker in California. But he left because he was not happy about all the chemical mixes it used. These include gelatin, oak dust, and eggs.
新酒窖的凯勒拥有生物化学学位。他最初在加州的一家大型酿酒厂工作。但他离开了，因为那里使用的所有化学混合物质，他都不喜欢，这些物质包括明胶、橡木粉和鸡蛋。
However, some say the line between natural and conventional wines is very narrow.
然而，有人说，天然葡萄酒和传统葡萄酒之间的界限并不明显。
Many products added to wine, like yeast, are natural products, Oberholster said. And many conventional wines are made without adding anything.
奥伯霍尔斯特说，许多添加到葡萄酒中的产品，比如酵母，都是天然产品。许多传统的葡萄酒都是不添加任何东西的。
Some in the industry would like to establish rules for producing natural wine. France's wine industry took such action in 2020, enacting requirements that winemakers must meet to identify their wines as natural.
一些业内人士希望为生产天然葡萄酒制定规则。法国葡萄酒行业在2020年采取了这样的行动，制定了酿酒者必须满足的要求，以确定他们的葡萄酒是天然的。
Some manufacturers argue that rules can make wine making more costly. Keller uses organic grapes but he says he cannot support the cost of repeated inspections for approval as an organic wine.
一些制造商认为，这些规定会提高葡萄酒酿造的成本。凯勒使用的是有机葡萄，但他说，他无法承受为了获得有机葡萄酒的批准而反复检查的成本。
Anthony Zhang is the co-founder and CEO of Vinovest, a wine investment company. He sees another problem.
安东尼˙张是葡萄酒投资公司Vinovest的联合创始人兼首席执行官。他看到了另一个问题。
Vinovest says some wine companies are profiting from the lack of rules. They use labeling content like imagery that suggests their wine making is natural when they are not, he argues.
Vinovest表示，一些葡萄酒公司正在从缺乏规则中获利。他说，他们用图像之类的标签内容来暗示他们的葡萄酒酿造是天然的，但实际上并非如此。
That can mislead buyers who often will pay higher prices for wines made by smaller producers that use natural methods.
这可能会误导买家，他们往往会为使用天然方法的小生产商酿造的葡萄酒支付更高的价格。
However, buyers may have more information on wine bottles soon. Starting in December, wines sold in the European Union will have to identify on their labeling all the substances each product contains.
然而，买家可能很快就会从酒瓶中得到更多信息。从12月开始，在欧盟销售的葡萄酒必须在标签上标明每种产品所含的全部物质。
Oberholster expects the U.S. to pass similar measures as well in the next few years.
奥伯霍尔斯特预计美国在未来几年也会通过类似的措施。
I'm Gregory Stachel.